Publications

Publications

Publications

Publications

Publications

Publications

Publications

Publications

Climate Change and Risks for the Coastline: Scientific Contributions for a Sustainable and Just Adaptation

Nicolas Rocle, C. Mallet, B. Castelle, E. Chaumillon

This contribution aims to be a summary and a presentation of knowledge from research conducted by the laboratories of Nouvelle-Aquitaine on the physical risks of coastal areas, their developments as a result of climate change and socio-economic and political dynamics at work with regard to the measures and strategies for adaptation. It is the result of collaboration between approximately 30 researchers from the following laboratories: BRGM, Criham (Université de Poitiers), EPOC (UMR Université de Bordeaux - CNRS), ETBX (Irstea), GREThA (UMR Université de Bordeaux - CNRS), LIENSs (UMR Université de La Rochelle - CNRS), ONF, SIAME (Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour).

(pp. 36, 18/10/2026)

UR ETBX, IRSTEA, BRGM, EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS, LIENSs, INSU - CNRS, ULR, CNRS

Environmental controls on surf zone injuries on high-energy beaches

Bruno Castelle, Tim Scott, Rob Brander, Jak Mccarroll, Arthur Robinet, Eric Tellier, Elias De Korte, Bruno Simonnet, Louis-Rachid Salmi

The two primary causes of surf zone injuries (SZIs) worldwide, including fatal drowning and severe spinal injuries, are rip currents (rips) and shore-break waves. SZIs also result from surfing and bodyboarding activity. In this paper we address the primary environmental controls on SZIs along the high-energy meso-macro-tidal surf beach coast of southwestern France. A total of 2523 SZIs recorded by lifeguards over 186 sample days during the summers of 2007, 2009 and 2015 were combined with measured and/or hindcast weather, wave, tide, and beach morphology data. All SZIs occurred disproportionately on warm sunny days with low wind, likely because of increased beachgoer numbers and hazard exposure. Relationships were strongest for shore-break- and rip-related SZIs and weakest for surfingrelated SZIs, the latter being also unaffected by tidal stage or range. Therefore, the analysis focused on bathers. More shore-break-related SZIs occur during shore-normal incident waves with average to below-average wave height (significant wave height, Hs = 0.75-1.5 m) and around higher water levels and large tide ranges when waves break on the steepest section of the beach. In contrast, more rip-related drownings occur near neap low tide, coinciding with maximised channel rip flow activity, under shore-normal incident waves with Hs > 1.25 m and mean wave periods longer than 5 s. Addi- tional drowning incidents occurred at spring high tide, presumably due to small-scale swash rips. The composite wave and tide parameters proposed by Scott et al. (2014) are key controlling factors determining SZI occurrence, although the risk ranges are not necessarily transferable to all sites. Summer beach and surf zone morphology is interannually highly variable, which is critical to SZI patterns. The upper beach slope can vary from 0.06 to 0.18 between summers, resulting in low and high shore-break-related SZIs, respectively. Summers with coast-wide highly (weakly) developed rip channels also result in widespread (scarce) rip-related drowning incidents. With life risk defined in terms of the number of people exposed to life threatening hazards at a beach, the ability of morphodynamic models to simulate primary beach morphology characteristics a few weeks or months in advance is therefore of paramount importance for predicting the primary surf zone life risks along this coast.

(Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences. vol. 19, n° 1561-8633, pp. 2183-2205, 18/10/2026)

EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS, SBMS, BRGM, UB, CHU Bordeaux, BPH, UB, INSERM

Tellurium behaviour in a major European fluvial–estuarine system (Gironde, France): fluxes, solid/liquid partitioning and bioaccumulation in wild oysters

Teba Gil-Díaz, Jörg Schäfer, Lionel Dutruch, Cécile Bossy, Frédérique Pougnet, Melina Abdou, Antoine Lerat-Hardy, Clément Pereto, Hervé Derriennic, Nicolas Briant, Teddy Sireau, Joël Knoery, Gérard Blanc

The environmental behaviour of tellurium is poorly understood. We investigate the transport of tellurium in both dissolved and particulate forms from the river watershed to the Gironde Estuary, where a 30-year historical record provides insight on tellurium bioaccumulation in wild oysters. These results constitute the first comprehensive study on natural tellurium behaviour in a major fluvial-estuarine system, information essential for predictive modelling of tellurium risk assessment. AbstractTellurium (Te) is a technology critical element (TCE) with largely unknown environmental behaviour, especially in continent-ocean interface systems. The unknown behaviour results from the lack of studies in aquatic environments and from analytical challenges limiting the determination of its naturally low (ultra-trace) environmental levels. We performed a comprehensive study of Te in the Lot–Garonne–Gironde fluvial–estuarine system to better understand seasonal variations, solid/liquid partitioning (Kd), gross fluxes, estuarine dynamics, and transfer to wild oysters at the estuary mouth. A temporal record (2014–2017) of dissolved (Ted) and particulate (Tep) Te concentrations at five sites in the Lot–Garonne River system shows little differences between sites, with average ~0.9ngL−1 and ~50µgkg−1 respective concentrations. Watershed Ted and Tep follow parallel seasonal patterns, which result in constant partitioning (log10 Kd ~4.75Lkg−1), with constant annual gross dissolved fluxes (~15.0kgy−1) and variable gross particulate fluxes (from 6.50 to 140kgy−1) entering the Gironde Estuary. Estuarine reactivity in contrasting hydrological conditions (from flood to drought) suggest that grain-size effects and/or estuarine hydrological residence times strongly affect Tep behaviour. Historical records (1984–2017) of Te in wild oysters at the estuary mouth vary from 1.33 to 2.89µgkg−1 dry weight (d.w.), without any clear long-term trend. This study provides rare knowledge on Te environmental dynamics in aquatic systems, and suggests that, although no current anthropogenic sources were identified in the economically developed Lot-Garonne-Gironde fluvial-estuarine system, there is a non-negligible bioaccumulation in wild oysters at the estuary mouth.

(Environmental Chemistry. vol. 16, n° 1448-2517, pp. 229, 18/10/2026)

EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS

Introduction: Special Issue on Coastal Evolution under Climate Change along the Tropical Overseas and Temperate Metropolitan France

Christophe Delacourt, Lucie Cocquempot, Bruno Castelle

This paper presents how major French science-oriented public institutions and Ministry of Higher Education, Research, and Innovation (MESRI) have developed and structured coastal observatories along metropolitan and oversea coastlines in order to better understand the metropolitan and oversea French coastal evolution on a wide range of temporal and spatial scales. Scientific results presented in this special Issue have been obtained in the framework of the resulting DYNALIT / ILICO observatory network.

(Journal of Coastal Research. vol. 88, n° 0749-0208, pp. 1-2, 18/10/2026)

IFREMER, EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS

Dispersive and dispersive-like bores in channels with sloping banks

Rémi Chassagne, Andrea Gilberto G Filippini, Mario Ricchiuto, Philippe Bonneton

In this paper, a detailed analysis of undular bore dynamics in channels of variable cross-section is presented. Two undular bore regimes, Low Froude Number (LFN) and High Froude Number (HFN), are simulated with a Serre-Green-Naghdi model, and the results are compared with the experiments by Treske. We show that contrary to Favre waves and HFN bores, which are controlled by dispersive non-hydrostatic mechanisms, LFN bores correspond to a hydrostatic phenomenon. The dispersive-like properties of the LFN bores is related to wave refraction on the banks in a way similar to that of edge waves in the nearshore. A fully hydrostatic asymptotic model for these dispersive-like bores is derived and compared to the observations, confirming our claim

(Journal of Fluid Mechanics. vol. 870, n° 0022-1120, pp. 595-616, 18/10/2026)

UGA [2016-2019], IRSTEA, UR ETGR (ETNA), IRSTEA, EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS, CARDAMOM, IMB, UB, Bordeaux INP, CNRS, Inria

A new species of Pista Malmgren, 1866 (Polychaeta, Terebellidae) from the north-western Mediterranean Sea

Céline Labrune, Nicolas Lavesque, Paulo Bonifácio, Pat Hutchings

A new species of Terebellidae, Pista colini sp. n., has been identified from the harbour of Banyuls-sur-Mer, northwestern Mediterranean Sea. This new species was found in very high densities, exclusively in grav-elly sand deposited manually, and was not found in the original source habitat of the gravel. This species is characterized by the colour of the ventral shields with pinkish anterior part and a blood red posterior part in live specimens, a pair of unequal-sized plumose branchiae inserted on segment II and anterior thoracic neuropodia with long-handled uncini. The presence of long-handled uncini even in the smallest specimens constitutes the major difference between Pista colini sp. n. and other Pista species with a single pair of branchiae such as P. lornensis and P. bansei.

(Zookeys. vol. 838, n° 1313-2989, pp. 71-84, 18/10/2026)

OOB, SU, CNRS, EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS, IFREMER, SAM

The impact of possible decadal-scale cold waves on viticulture over Europe in a context of global warming

Giovanni Sgubin, Didier Swingedouw, Iñaki Garcia de Cortazar-Atauri, Nathalie Ollat, Cornelis van Leeuwen

A comprehensive analysis of all the possible impacts of future climate change is crucial for strategic plans of adaptation for viticulture. Assessments of future climate are generally based on the ensemble mean of state-of-the-art climate model projections, which prefigures a gradual warming over Europe for the 21st century. However, a few models project single or multiple O(10) year temperature drops over the North Atlantic due to a collapsing subpolar gyre (SPG) oceanic convection. The occurrence of these decadal-scale "cold waves" may have strong repercussions over the continent, yet their actual impact is ruled out in a multi-model ensemble mean analysis. Here, we investigate these potential implications for viticulture over Europe by coupling dynamical downscaled EUR-CORDEX temperature projections for the representative concentration pathways (RCP)4.5 scenario from seven different climate models-including CSIRO-Mk3-6-0 exhibiting a SPG convection collapse-with three different phenological models simulating the main developmental stages of the grapevine. The 21st century temperature increase projected by all the models leads to an anticipation of all the developmental stages of the grapevine, shifting the optimal region for a given grapevine variety northward, and making climatic conditions suitable for high-quality wine production in some European regions that are currently not. However, in the CSIRO-Mk3-6-0 model, this long-term warming trend is suddenly interrupted by decadal-scale cold waves, abruptly pushing the suitability pattern back to conditions that are very similar to the present. These findings are crucial for winemakers in the evaluation of proper strategies to face climate change, and, overall, provide additional information for long-term plans of adaptation, which, so far, are mainly oriented towards the possibility of continuous warming conditions.

(Agronomy. vol. 9, n° 2073-4395, pp. 1-22, 18/10/2026)

EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS, AGROCLIM, INRA, UMR EGFV, INRA, UB, Bordeaux Sciences Agro

Attribution of ocean temperature change to anthropogenic and natural forcings using the temporal, vertical and geographical structure

Roberto a F Bilbao, Jonathan M Gregory, Nathaëlle Bouttes, Matthew D Palmer, Peter Stott

We examine whether significant changes in ocean temperatures can be detected in recent decades and if so whether they can be attributed to anthropogenic or natural factors. We compare ocean temperature changes for 1960-2005 in four observational datasets and in historical simulations by atmosphere-ocean general circulation models (AOGCMs) from the Coupled Model Intercomparison Project phase 5 (CMIP5). Observations and CMIP5 models show that the upper 2000 m has warmed with a signal that has a well-defined geographical pattern that gradually propagates to deeper layers over time. Greenhouse gas forcing has contributed most to increasing the temperature of the ocean, a warming which has been offset by other anthropogenic forcing (mainly aerosols), and volcanic eruptions which cause episodic cooling. By characterizing the ocean temperature change response to these forcings we construct multi-model mean fingerprints of time-depth changes in temperature and carry out two detection and attribution analysis. We consider first a two-signal separation into anthropogenic and natural forcings. Then, for the first time, we consider a three signal separation into greenhouse gas, anthropogenic aerosols and natural forcings. We show that all three signals are simultaneously detectable. Using multiple depth levels decreases the uncertainty of the results. Limiting the observations and model fields to locations where there are observations increases the detectability of the signal.

(Climate Dynamics. vol. 53, n° 0930-7575, pp. 5389 - 5413, 18/10/2026)

UOR, EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS

The influence of bottom currents on the Zambezi Valley morphology (Mozambique Channel, SW Indian Ocean): In situ current observations and hydrodynamic modelling

Elda Miramontes, Pierrick Penven, Ruth Fierens, Laurence Droz, Samuel S. Toucanne, Stephan J. Jorry, Gwenael Jouet, Lucie Pastor, Ricardo Silva Jacinto, Arnaud Gaillot, Jacques Giraudeau, François Raisson

Mixed turbidite-contourite systems can be found in oceans where bottom currents and turbidity currents interact. The Zambezi turbidite system, located in the Mozambique Channel (SW Indian Ocean), is one of the largest sedimentary systems in the world in length and area of the related catchments. The oceanic circulation in the Mozambique Channel is intense and complex, dominated by eddies flowing southwards and deep currents flowing northwards along the Mozambican margin. Current measurements obtained from moorings at 3400–4050 m water depth in the Zambezi and Tsiribihina valleys show periods of intense currents at the seafloor with peaks of 40–50 cm s−1 that last up to one month and are not related to turbidity currents. These strong bottom-current events are correlated with a change in current direction and an increase in temperature. The periods of current intensification may be related to eddies, since they present similar frequencies (around 7 per year). Moreover, modelling results show that during periods of intense deep circulation an anticyclonic eddy is present between the Mozambican slope and the centre of the Mozambique Channel, which may block the northward transport of the deep water mass and thus enhance the southward transport along the western slope of Madagascar. According to our hydrodynamic modelling of the circulation near the seafloor, intense currents are often present along the Zambezi Valley, especially along the valley flanks. Multi-channel seismic reflection data show that the Zambezi turbidite system does not show the typical characteristics of turbidite systems, being dominated by erosional processes, which mainly affect the valley flanks. Levees associated with the valley are absent in the main axis of the system. The effect of bottom currents on sedimentation in the basin is evidenced by the low sedimentation rates that witness winnowing in the basin, the presence of contouritic sand in the Zambezi Valley flanks and the abundance of current-related bedforms observed in multibeam bathymetry and seismic data. The intense oceanic processes observed in the Mozambique Channel may transport a large part of the fine sediment out of the basin and erode the seafloor even at great depths. Therefore, the Zambezi turbidite system could at present be considered as a mixed turbidite-contourite system, with important implications for source-to-sink studies.

(Marine Geology. vol. 410, n° 0025-3227, pp. 42-55, 18/10/2026)

LGO, UBS, IFREMER, UBO EPE, CNRS, LOPS, IRD, IFREMER, INSU - CNRS, UBO EPE, CNRS, GM, IFREMER, LEP, EEP, IFREMER, EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS, [Total Fina ELF]

Mesures des concentrations et des flux de polluants atmosphériques

Benjamin Loubet, Dominique Baisnee, Mathieu Cazaunau, Audrey Fortems-Cheiney, Raluca Ciuraru, Cathy Clerbaux, Jean-Francois Doussin, Gaelle Dufour, Cristian Focsa, C. George, Valérie Gros, Mélynda Hassouna, Jean Luc Jaffrezo, Julien Kammer, Patricia Laville, Wahid Mellouki, Maurice Millet, Denis Petitprez, Etienne Quivet, Nathalie Redon, Roland Sarda-Estève, Stéphane Sauvage, Gaelle Uzu, Eric Villenave, Nora Zannoni

(pp. 127-156, 18/10/2026)

ECOSYS, INRAE, LSCE, UVSQ, INSU - CNRS, CNRS, DRF (CEA), CEA, LISA (UMR_7583), INSU - CNRS, UPEC UP12, CNRS, UPCité, LATMOS, UVSQ, INSU - CNRS, SU, CNRS, PhLAM, CNRS, IRCELYON, UCBL, INC-CNRS, CNRS, SAS, INRA, IGE, IRD, Grenoble INP, INSU - CNRS, CNRS, UGA [2016-2019], Fédération OSUG, ICARE, UO, CNRS, INSIS - CNRS, ICPEES, UNISTRA, INC-CNRS, CNRS, MNGE, UNISTRA, Université de Haute-Alsace (UHA), INSERM, INC-CNRS, CNRS, PC2A, CNRS, LCE, AMU, INC-CNRS, CNRS, IMT Lille Douai, IMT, EPOC, EPHE, PSL, UB, INSU - CNRS, CNRS